Pizza and Wine: A Perfect Pair (Part 1)

The Pizza/Wine Experience

There's nothing like a slice of pizza (or more) and a glass of wine (or more) to compliment it. The two seem to be a natural pairing. Luxurious cheeses, variously structured dough, rich tomato sauce, aromatic herbs and flavorful toppings make the simple act of eating pizza a truly sensual affair.

Don't you love it when you take the first bite! The amazing mix of melted cheese, savory tomato sauce, herbs and toppings all melding into one sumptuous tasting explosion.

Wine is the perfect partner to enhance the delight of pizza. The right wine can intensify your experience in every way.  Isn't that what it's all about? Taking the time to connect with the foods we eat, letting them enliven our senses. Wine and pizza do this perfectly. The Italians really got it right.

Pizza - Red Wine Pairing Guidelines 

Here are a few simple guidelines on pairing wine with three popular pizzas.

Cheese Pizza

Cheese pizza is the classic New York Neapolitan pizza. It's traditional and always good to go. You will have to work with the acid in the tomato sauce and the fat in the cheese.  To cut the fat you will need a wine moderately high in acid and with moderate tannin. The tomatoes demand a wine higher in acid. 

Red wine would be most fitting to accomplish the task.

1 - Barbera d'Alba. My first choice would be a Barbera d' Alba from the Italian Piedmont, It's low in tanin and high in acidity. A nice match. 

2 - Chianti. Second would be the Sangiovese based Chianti. You can stay with a regular Chianti DOCG rather than the Chianti Classico. The regular Chianti is less intense, ligther and less tannic. A very nice match for your cheese pizza. 

3 - Beaujolais. A nice match would be the Gamay grape from France. A good Beaujolais is light bodied, with nice fruit and very refreshing. I enjoy this match very much. 

 Pepperoni Pizza

With the addition of pepperoni to the pizza you have an extra layer of spice and fat. You will need a rather bold wine to stand up to the power of this pizza style. 

1 - Cabernet Franc. A good Cabernet Franc is a fantastic pair with pepperoni pizza. It is a big wine with big flavors. It possesses an earthiness that goes well with the pepperoni's fat and spice. 

2 - Chianti. The Sangiovese grape is big enough to match the spice and fat in the pepperoni. Consider a Chianti Classico. It is more robust and bigger than a regular Chianti. Other Sangiovese based wines would also be fine.  

Sausage Pizza

Sausage Pizza is big and bold with plenty of spices. You will need to think big red to make the perfect match. Sausages are complicated and have many ingredients, including fennel, oregano, anise, etc. 

1 - Syrah. Big full bodied reds like Syrah go well with the rich spiciness of sausage. Syrah's intense dark fruits, olives, dark berries and spice matches up perfectly with what a sausage pizza offers. 

2 - Cabernet Sauvignon. A high tannin, high acid wine like Cabernet Sauvignon is a great match with any sausage and meat pizza. Rich, spicy foods need a big Cab to complement it. Although both the pizza and the wine are big, they work well together. 

Closing

In the next post, I'll address a few other types of pizza and the wines that go well with them.

Remember, keep things simple. It's really about what you like and want to drink. My preferences are just that, my preferences. After some trial and error you can decide what you like best. Just as you have some favorite pizzas, you will also develop a taste for specific wines. 

Salute! 

Ristorante RAFELE - Outstanding Italian Cuisine

After catching Cate Blanchett in her new Broadway play The Present, Mary and I took the E train to the West Village to have dinner at Rafele, an Italian restaurant located at 29 7th Ave. South in the West Village. I had heard about Rafele through the TV show Brindiamo, hosted by Ornella Fado.

The restaurant is modern and upbeat. None of the old heavy reds and thick carpets common in many traditional Italian restaurants. I noticed that the tables were not tightly pushed together as so often happens. We were seated in such a way that no one was near us. What a relief.

Our waitress, Aygul, was friendly, warm and very knowledgeable. Another relief. We struck up conversation very easily. She helped us through the entire meal effortlessly. She's a real pro.

Wine 

Sardinian Argiolas Vermentino

We started off by ordering a 2015 Sardinian Argiolas Vermentino. It was quite good. It was straw colored with a subtle nose, a touch of acidity and rich flavors of peach and apricot. It had nice body and a pleasant finish. Intense but delicate. We noted that it was less acidic, with less minerality than Vermentinos from Liguria in Northern Italy. Very pleasing. And for $10 a glass a real pleasure.

Eggplant Starter

The Vermentino went perfectly with the eggplant caponata starter that was served with crisp Italian bread. This recipe didn't call for the olives, pignoli nuts and capers to which I'm normally accustomed. Very simple, very tasty. A great caponata of eggplant, red peppers and onions.


Appetizers 

Melanzana

For appetizers, Mary ordered the Melanzana, which consists of layers of eggplant, grana Padano, buffalo mozzarella and the house tomato sauce. It was terrific. The sauce was superb.

Terrina Di Mare

I ordered the Terrina Di Mare: shelled mussels, shrimp, lemon, butter, white wine and Calabrian red pepper. This appetizer came with a light sauce perfect for dunking. It was perfectly cooked, nothing overdone. The taste was scrumptious. We used up all our Italian bread dunking into the savory seafood sauce.

Entrees

Spaghetti Alla Chitarra

For our main dishes, Mary ordered the Spaghetti Alla Chitarra. which is spaghetti with the house tomato sauce, buffalo ricotta, basil and extra virgin olive oil. It's simple and delicious. The buffalo ricotta was delicate and very tasteful. Mary wished for more ricotta to enjoy.

Pappardelle Wild Boar Ragu

 I ordered the Pappardelle Wild Boar Ragu. It was stupendous. It was rich and flavorful, compelling with the combination of wild boar, pasta and an extraordinary brown sauce. It also had a luxurious and smooth texture that gave it an elegant appeal.


We thought we were finished after the entrees but Aygul tempted us with the homemade Ricotta Cheese Cake. What an ending. A superb rendition of the common cheese cake that was worth waiting for. Rich, smooth in texture and highly satisfying to the palate.

Conclusion

At the end of the meal, Chef Raffale Ronca came out to greet us. We had a very nice conversation and thanked him for creating such a great culinary establishment. He was very gracious. To top it off, as Chef Ronca was leaving us, Alan Alda walked by on his way to his table. I had the brief opportunity to engage him and thank him for his work. A nice touch.

Mary and I both highly recommend Rafele. It's modern, airy, and upbeat. The wait staff is very professional and attentive. The food, however, is the star. Fresh, high quality ingredients cooked to perfection and very tasty. Not overwhelming, very well balanced. The  portions are moderate in size and reminiscent of the portions served in Italy. Prices are moderate, lower than we expected, and quite good for Manhattan.

Rafele may be the best Italian restaurant we've experienced in many years. We plan to return as soon and as often as we can. Give it a try.

Rafele is located at 29 7th Ave. South in the West Village, 212 242-1990.

An Italian Vermentino: A Perfect Match for Holiday Seafood

La Bettigna 2014 Colli di Luni Vermentino

It's Christmas Eve and we are preparing to have seafood for dinner. Mary is preparing mussels in a white sauce, linguine and clams with an entree of salmon and filet. When we sit down to dinner, we want a pleasant but lively wine to accompany our Xmas Eve repast. 

Vermentino (originally a Spanish grape) is a perfect match for seafood. The grape is grown in the Ligura region of Italy as well as in Sardinia, Tuscany and other places. It is DOC since 1988.  Liguria is near Genoa and by the sea. Because of the geography, there aren't a lot of large producers. But the Vermentinos from this area are of excellent quality.  

The Vermentino I've chosen is the La Bettigna 2014 Colli di Luni Vermentino. It is biodynamically grown, made in stainless steel with indigenous yeast. It is not refined or filtered. 

What I like about this wine is how it combines a citrus acidity and a strong minerality. It even has a kind of briny sense reminiscent of the sea. The nose is herbal and pleasing. It is a serious wine with medium body and seems very versatile. We had it with chicken the other night and it paired perfectly. Mary and I both agreed that it would be a perfect summer wine to cool things off. We will have to give it a shot next summer.  

For now, we will see how it matches up with the Xmas Eve fish dinner. I'm thinking it will be just fine. 

You can pick up a bottle for a little over $20.00. 

Here is a look at the Liguria region of DOC wines: 

  

3 Refreshing Summer Wines for Under $20.00

When the days turn warm and the afternoons are long and leisurely, my interest turns to good food and refreshing white wines. Mary and I have come to depend on good, inexpensive wines that make lunch or dinner a more sensuous and soothingly lingering experience. Nothing can beat a lively, cool, crisp white wine to make any meal memorable and the company more intimate. There are many excellent wines that offer such qualities but often we turn to one of the three wines listed here.

Experience has taught us that dependability is an important element in truly enjoying a long, summer meal with friends and family. These three wines offer refreshing taste, well matched acidity and minerality, and a knack for making summer foods pop with wide-eyed fun. They are also priced below $20.00.

Our Summer 2016 List

Our go to wine these days is the German Peter Lauer Barrel X Riesling. Peter Lauer has something of a cult status and this entry level offering is worth seeking out. Barrel X is a dry Riesling with nice complexity and nuanced tones. It has great minerality, citrus and green apple notes and a sparkling liveliness from nose to finish. I think you will fully enjoy this superb offering. Pairs great with Asian food, barbecue, blue cheese and fish. 

Barrel X normally goes for about $18.00.

Take a peek at Peter Lauer Barrel X

Next on our list is Kim Crawford's Sauvignon Blanc. This is an exciting wine from New Zealand. It's a great place to start if you are looking for some pop in your wine drinking experience. Unlike many Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand it has more tropical fruit, melon and pear elements making it very pleasing and approachable. It's juicy, mouth-watering acidity on top of a tangy fruitiness makes for a real zing that can help any meal reach full potential. Pair it especially with grilled fish, mussels, and shrimp.

You can pick a bottle up for about $16.00. 

Here's a nice offering at Wine.com

To finish off things off, we have a Casal Garcia Vinho Verde from Portugal. This is a simple wine that offers fresh, fruity aromas that fit perfectly into a relaxed summer atmosphere. It suggests a hint of effervescence that adds a perky and lively feel to the core of acidity. Casal is crispy dry with just enough fruitiness to make you go back for more time and again. It's a focused wine that stays away from complications. It matches well with sushi, cheese dishes, seafood and salads. 

You can probably find this for under $10.00.

Check out Casal Garcia Vinho Verde 


I hope you savor these wines as much as Mary and I have over the years. With warm weather upon us, you can enjoy the long, hot days with respectable companions.  

Let me know you favorite summer wines. 

Statti Arvino 2008 - A Classic Calabrian Wine

The Statti 2008 Arvino out of Calabria is a superb red.wine with rich dark fruit, nice complexity on the nose, spices, a touch of chocolate and a hint of leather. The tannins are smooth with a bright acidity. Terrific flavor. The finish is polished and very enjoyable. This wine stands out with finesse, complexity and richness at 14% alcohol.  It is a blend of the local Gaglioppo grape (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%).  Statti has created an excellent product in this 2008 venture.  Statti also puts out a 100% pure Gaglioppo which I am ready to try.  Arvino is a great food wine with all that vibrant acidity and smooth but not too heavy texture.  You can pair this with meats, especially veal or just about any traditional southern Italian dish.

2008 Arvino

The Gaglioppo grape was previously thought to be of Greek origin.  But recent DNA profiling has determined that it is from Italy. It's probably closely related to Sangiovese and some other undetermined Italian grape. Gaglioppo is able to withstand drought conditions and generally produces a rich, full bodied wine. It's a hardy grape and rather durable.

Statti Winery, Calabria

Like so many southern Italian wines, the price is astoundingly low for the quality attained.  I picked up the 2008 Arvino on sale for about $12.00.  I can't imagine a better, more enjoyable wine for the price.  It's a gem.   I've embedded a Gaglioppo wine review from Plonk Wine Merchants.  Enjoy!!!

Anarkos - A Wine Against

For our traditional Labor Day party at our place in Floral Park, Long Island, I chose an interesting offering from Puglia, Italy. Anarkos wine has a unique cultural context that is just as interesting as the wine.  As far as I can tell, Anarkos wine is produced by an anarchist commune of sorts that is decrying the misuse of the traditional grapes from the "lands of Puglia." To quote from the Anarkos web site, which is rather explicit:

"The Sacrifice of Millions of Rare Alberello Grape Wines, the third millenium Capitalistic Colonization of the lands of Puglia, the Expoitation of its vineyards and wines, the northern regions Bellicose Take Over of Puglian planting rights, the Complicity and the Factiousness of the European Community Laws of agriculture, cultural Oppression which influences the consumption of wine, the Annihilation of tradition, the Dominance of the market.  Accademia says: no!"

The alberello is a small hardy vine with minimal need for water.  This vine is very effective for use in southern Italian regions that have very little rain fall.  Alberello is also a traditional way of making wine or vinoculture that enables an increased density per hectare.  In the past twenty years many have abandoned the traditional ways of producing wine in Puglia and have used Palmetta or Cordon vines.  However, these vines suffer greatly from the long hot southern Italian summers.

Beautiful Puglia

The Anarkos website alludes to the exploitation, by capitalist concerns, of the old ways.  Capitalists and their  embrace of the market have been destroying the traditional alberello system of wine making.  The Anarkos group is attempting to restore the tradition before it is totally annihilated.

Since our friend Ed was coming over for dinner, and has leftest sympathies, Anarkos seemed to be a perfect match for the festivities.

I decanted the wine, which was a 2011 Anarkos, an hour before drinking.  I had tried to find a 2010 vintage but could only come up with a 2011.  This may be too recent a vintage to get a realistic tasting.   The wine is a blend of the traditional grapes Primativo, Negro Amaro, and Malvasia. At first taste, I was struck by the texture, smooth and silky, almost gooey.  I felt it was coating my tongue.  It wasn't very dry and not much acidity.  The flavors were deep plums and fruits, probably cherries.  It had a succulent, rich feel.  My daughter-in-law, Angela, thought it was sweet.  I believe her sensation stemmed from the very forward fruit.  The alcohol content is 13%.  Over time, sitting out in the back devouring barbecued meats and veggies, I found the fruit moving more forward and dominating.  I would say that Anarkos is a mix of old traditional wine making and new, more current methods.

The label is attractive and provocative.  The wine is very enjoyable but not totally to my liking.  Too much fruit, too fruit driven. However, my guests fully enjoyed it and gave it a high rating.  Anarkos is worth purchasing.  You can pick it up for about $14.00 or less on sale.

Enjoying Bermuda's Cuisine

My wife and I recently went to Bermuda on vacation. The island was very beautiful and relaxing. The beaches were clean and enjoyable.

You can't find a view like this in New York!

I'm writing this post to tell you about the food in Bermuda, not the amazing views. Bermuda really does not have much of its own cuisine. Most of its food is English, American and Caribbean in origin. All of which you can get here in the States. However, there are two food items and a drink that I want to mention. The two dishes we both tried were fried Conch fritters and Bermuda fish chowder soup. We were going to have the Wahoo fish but the restaurant didn't have any available at that time. Bermuda is known for its rum. The popular drink in Bermuda is the swizzle. But first, the fried Conch.

The fried Conch is the meat inside a sea shell. Below is a photo of the Conch Shell.

I wouldn't particularly eat Conch because the texture is like a clam, which I'm not fond of. But since we ordered fried Conch fritters I just couldn't resist. The fritters were shaped like balls and breaded on the outside. The Conch meat was minced, had carrots and maybe potato. The fritters came with lemon and a very delightful tartar sauce. My wife doesn't like tartar sauce but she liked this one. See the fried Conch fritters below.

The Bermuda fish chowder was surprisingly good. I thought the soup was going to be very fishy and creamy. When I tried it, the soup was not fishy or creamy at all. Actually there was tomato sauce in the soup which gave it a rich red color. The texture of the soup was not watery, it had some thickness. There was definitely fish stock used in the soup. The fish was very tender as it seemed like the fish had been cooking for a long time. The soup contained Grouper, Wahoo, Halibut and Hake which were shredded and reminded me of shredded pork. You may also add a sherry pepper sauce and black rum which makes the soup taste a little more bitter. My wife preferred the soup without the sauces. See the Bermuda fish chowder below.

Bermuda is known for its rum. But there is one drink in particular that is very popular on the Island and considered its national drink. The Bermuda Rum Swizzle is a great tasting drink even if you are not a real rum drinker. Depending on where you get the swizzle, the recipes can change slightly. We had one which contained pineapple, mango, lemon, angostura, orange juice and black rum. The drink had a thickness to it, which most likely came from the mango juice. We were still able to taste the rum but there was so much flavor from the other fruits that it made the drink delightful. 

Bermuda is not known for its own cuisine but it was nice to taste some different foods and have a drink that you really don't see very often. If you ever go to Bermuda, make sure to have a Bermuda Rum Swizzle and eat some of its enjoyable dishes! 

David John Oliva

Edi and The Wolf - Austrian Brunch Menu

Edi and the Wolf Exterior

On a recent Saturday morning, my wife and I had some errands to run in the East Village. Having never been in that area, we wanted to go to a nice brunch spot. We were both in the mood for steak but also wanted breakfast food. We decided to go to a restaurant called Edi and the Wolf. This is a Austrian restaurant serving lunch and dinner during the week and brunch/lunch/dinner over the weekends. The photo to the left is the front of the restaurant. It has a very charming rustic look. The plants give the feel of going into an oasis in the middle of the New York City.
Photo Source: Yelp.com

  Decor

Edi and the Wolf Interior

The photo to the left was taken from the bar which is located in the rear. In reviews that I have read about this place, the wood paneling on the floors, walls and ceiling are from an old Wisconsin barn. The seating against the wall has rocking chair like cushions and are very comfy. The place is cool even though the temperature was 100 degrees outside and they had opened up the garage door in the front. The lighting was low, the tables and chairs made of wood.  Awesome blues music playing in the background created a very relaxing atmosphere and certainly made me calmer after walking in 100 degree heat!  Oddly, for an Austrian restaurant I did not get an Austrian feel. It felt more like Louisiana! But honestly, I'm not that familiar with Austria or Austrian restaurants.  

Appetizers
Let's take a look at their brunch menu:

(Click on menu to enlarge)

Source: ediandthewolf.com

The prices are a little high considering we went for brunch.  We were pretty much set on steak and eggs as soon as we saw the menu. The steak and eggs come with potato pancakes, a sunny side up egg, greens (arugula), croutons and creme fraiche. Different types of bread were served. There was a mini croissant, whole wheat, thick white bread toast and regular Italian bread. The waitress said the butter was homemade. It was sweet, very smooth in texture and not very salty. It was a good change compared to supermarket butter. There was also homemade peach preserves on the table that was very sweet and good. The cold water was served without ice. Having no ice is good except it was so hot outside that some ice would've been nice. 

My wife ordered a mimosa. The mimosa was strong with just a little orange juice. Nothing like a stiff mimosa for brunch!

We received our steak and eggs!  

 

My wife had her steak medium rare which is what you see in the the photo above. I ordered mine medium well. The meat was cooked to our liking, tender and juicy. We received four thick strips of steak. The eggs were perfectly done and served with green onion shavings. The potato pancake resided underneath the steak. The potato was shredded, browned perfectly and absorbed all the juices from the plate. I actually enjoyed the potato the most. The flavor from the food made it into a super potato. I was dunking everything into the creme fraiche. It was cheesy and spicy. It complimented everything on the plate. The arugula had a Ceasar like dressing and was very good.

After we were finished eating, we didn't feel overly full. The portions were just right. We were able to sit and chat comfortably. The staff didn't  rush us out of the place at all. 

We're looking forward to eating at Edi and The Wolf once again!

Overall, I loved the decor and food! One drawback was having to walk about a mile to the closest subway. We will definitely go again. I highly recommend going to Edi and The Wolf!

Scale 1-10 (1 is gross and 10 is stupendous)

Location: 7
Décor: 9
Food: 9.5
Service: 9
Price: 6

Overall: 8

David John Oliva

Edi & The Wolf

102 Avenue C, New York, NY

(212) 598-1040 ‎ · ediandthewolf.com

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Excellent Summer Whites Part 2

I know you will be shaking your heads in disbelief, but it is true.  All three wines I am reviewing in this post were purchased at Stew Leonard's in Carle Place, Long Island.  I get it that Stew's is not the most high brow wine emporium.  I get that there are tons of awful wines filling the rows.  But it must be said:  there are some good wines in the mix and at excellent prices.  Here goes.

Chateau Magence Graves 2010

This is a very nice, if funky, Bordeaux white that is a great and inexpensive pop and pour.  The nose is a floral and citrus blend that is quite appealing.  The wine is crisp and refreshing with notes of lemon, lime apricot and pear.  It possesses a well balanced acidity and goes wonderfully when paired with cheese, especially a good French cheese.  White Bordeaux is a generally overlooked wine by the general public.  The Chateau Magence Graves 2010 is worth a nice long look on those hot summer days. Its acidity adds an uplifting character to its charm.  Great QPR.  If you are going to purchase a white wine that is inexpensive but offers good complexity and a sensual dimension, Magence Graves is it.  You can pick this wine up for about $11.00 at Stew Leonard's.


The Seeker Riesling 2009, Alsace France 


Another Stew Leonard's find is this Alsacian Riesling.  The Seeker is a company that sources grapes from around the globe and markets them under a centralized name.  I get it that this approach is not well received by many in the wine world.  But this wine is good.  The Seeker has a great series of labels, copies of old prints of airships from the past. The Riesling itself is very dry.  I mention this because Mary and I, especially Mary, are on a constant and relentless search of the perfect bone dry Riesling.  The Seeker Riesling is not the most dry we have every discovered but it's close.  It has peach, honeysuckle and nice minerality.  It is very refreshing and bright even mouthwatering. It's great with summer salads, shellfish and even heavier foods.  The Seeker Riesling can be purchased for $10.00.  A great guy!

The Golem Riesling 2010, Australia  


The Golem Riesling is put out by the Misfit Wine Co. in Australia. In Jewish folklore, a golem is an animated anthropomorphic being, created entirely from inanimate matter. In some legends it is evil while in others it is not. I've yet to discover the link between the Golem legend and the wine.  This particular wine seems to represent the changes Australian wine is undergoing. There are more bold and snappy brands emerging for every level of taste and pocket book.  Granted, Riesling is not a traditional Australian wine.  But with The Golem I found a crisp,dry and vibrant wine that is superbly refreshing. It has nice citrus notes with a light menthol finish. There's green apple and honeydew, as well.  The Golem can run between $15.00 and $20.00 or as low and $10.00.  


I hope you enjoy these wines over the long, hot summer.  Don't be fooled into thinking you can only find good wine at high prices! 

Excellent Blended Whites for Summer

On the hutch in the dinning room sit eight empty wine bottles. They are the result of a two month long binge with white wines from various parts of the world.  My wife has finally put down the gauntlet: the wine bottles must go. So, before they meet their fate I will do some quick reviews of the wines in a short series of posts.  I'm hoping I can keep up with our consumption of whites. It's now summer and most reds will be stored until the fall, at least for the most part.  New whites seem to come out of storage every other night or so.  So here goes.

The first wine is from Portugal, Espirito Lagoalva 2010. This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (25%), Alvarinho (20%), Verdelho (20%), Fernao Pires (20%) and Arinto (15%).  13% alcohol.  It's grown in the Lagoalva region which is known for its sandy soils and is about 100 km northeast of Lisbon.  Lagoalva uses modern wine making technology for both its indigenous and international varietals.  Blends seem also to be a distinguishing character of Lagoalva.  We found this blend to be quite good with lots of kiwi and melon flavors topped off with a fine, lively finish.  The acidity is fresh and pleasing.  It was splendid before dinner with some light cheeses.  I recommend this wine for summer drinking.  It's very enjoyable, very fresh, light and gives a sensuous mouthwatering feel.  It goes for about $12.00.  It's worth the cost.

The second wine is another blend from neighboring Spain, Rios Baixs, DoZoe 2010, produced by Adega Marea Alta. The blend consists of 52% Albarino, 21% Treixandura, 11% Caino Blanco, 8.5% Loureiro, 7.5% Godello.  13% alcohol.  It hails from Galicia in Northwestern Spain.  This is another great summer wine.  It has a bright, fresh tropical nose with some mouthwatering fruit flavors on the palate. It's dry and aromatic with a distinctive crispness and an attractive elegance.We had it with light fish.  The pairing was excellent.  I can see it going with skewers of shrimp and other sea food. I can't recall exactly what the price was. I think it was a tad more than the first wine.  It may have gone for$20.00. But I'm not sure. It's worth the price.  We fully enjoyed the tasting and admired its fragrance and natural pairing qualities. 

Our third wine for today is Donnafugata Anthilia 2010 from Sicilia, Italy.  This is also a blend or 51% Catarratto and Ansonica, Viognier and Chardonnay.  It's 12.24% alcohol.  This is a very distinctive Sicilian wine.  Much more to our taste than most Sicilian whites we have experienced. We fully enjoyed this one.  It comes across with peaches, flowers, perhaps grapefruit and pear all blended superbly.  I found it mouthwatering and with a firm body and excellent minerality.  This wine will reach its peak in a year or two.  Hold on to it, it will get even better.  The blend is well done.  I'm sure this would go with salads, seafood, cheese, etc.  It's a very enjoyable and high quality wine. Don't pass this up. You should be able to get it for $12.00 to $14.00.   


All three whites have a great QPR.  I hope you enjoy them as much as we did.  


Next time I will review a few more of our favorite whites.  

Pinot Noir: Monte Degli Angeli Monferrato, 2009

Not long a ago our good friend Alden brought us a bottle of Italian Pinot Noir.  I've only had one Italian Pinot Noir previouly and had little recollection of what that wine offered.  This recent choice was a Monte Degli Angeli (Mount of Angels) Monferrato, 2009 from the Piedmont region in Northwestern Italy.  Monferrato is relatively undiscovered in the US.  The estate is owned and manged by Antonio and Paolo Sperone.

I opened it at the first opportunity. My taste in Pinot usually settles in the Oregon and Washington State regions so I was a tad anxious about this Italian version.

An intriguing feature of the Monferrato is that it is not  pure Pinot Noir.  It is blended with a little Nebbiolo.  It's this blend that lends the wine its distinctive character.  Its nose is aromatic, full and with strong red berries.  The color is a beautiful ruby red.  Upon tasting, I noticed much more structure and a fuller body than the usual Pinot Noir.  The finish is long, elegant and silky, very pleasing. I would guess it is the Nebbiolo that gives it greater structure and depth.  The tannins were very modest and pleasing.  I had this wine with breaded and baked catfish with broccoli and cauliflower.  The next day I had it with, believe it or not, a bowl of Kale soup that Mary had prepared. The pairing was fine.  I'm sure you can have this wine with pasta dishes, pork, and roast chicken, as well.  The more robust nature of the wine gives it pairing possibilities with stronger red meats such as lamb. I may give that a try very soon.

The cost of this wine is unbelievably modest at around $10.00 a bottle.  It may not be the most splendid Pinot Noir every produced but it is very interesting, great to drink and a real buy at such a low cost.

Cru Beaujolais: Excellent Wine at a Modest Price

You may be saying to yourself: "Bob has finally walked the plank.  How can he be recommending Beaujolais, that stuff is like water." Ok. Admittedly, there is a lot of Beaujolais out there that is distinctly inferior.  But not all Beaujolais is bad and worthy of scorn. Duboeuf Morgon Jean Descombes 2009 is one of those wines that is enjoyable, simple, yet substantial, and very reasonably priced.  Let me explain a little about Beaujolais before letting you know about a recent example of how Beaujolais can be enjoyable and add much to a meal. 

AOC Beaujolais: This is a young, inexpensive fruity wine which contains the dreaded Beaujolais Nouveau released only weeks after being harvested.  It is undistinguished and newly born.  These wines don't merit attention.  Some people do find them refreshing and fruity and, importantly, easy on the wallet.

AOC Beaujolais-Villages: This appellation accounts for up to a quarter of all the Beaujolais produced.  It tends to be of a higher quality than the regular or Beaujolais Nouveau.  The wines are more complex and fuller bodied.  There are many good wines to choose from in this category.  Louis Jadot is a good representative of this type.

AOC Cru du Beaujolais: These are the wines grown in the top ten zones in the area and can possess very high qualities.  Cru Beaujolais is a top tier wine that is worthy of attention and enjoyment.  The wine has been overlooked due to the poor reputation gained by the Beaujolais Nouveau that floods the country every fall.  

2009 Georges Duboeuf Morgon Jean Descombes: We were lucky enough to share this wine with the Molloys and the Browns at a belated St. Patrick's Day Party.  I was obsessing about which wine to bring knowing that Florence was making a traditional corned beef and cabbage dinner.  This hearty food is notoriously difficult to pair.  Our good friend and wine expert, Kim Caldwell, warned against the pairing but thought it might be worth a try.  Lo and behold, it worked wonderfully.  The wine was juicy with good body. It was deep in color with a spice running through it that was invigorating.  It had notes of berries, a smokiness and a firm, enjoyable finish.  Most importantly, it complemented the dinner perfectly.  Our good friend Alden gave the thumbs up nod.  

Some other good Cru Beaujolais wines are:

2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon 

2008 Charly Thevenet Regnie Grain & Granit

The Beaujolais Cru wines are inexpensive and of very high quality.  Many can be purchased for under $20.00.  

La Cala Vermentino di Sardegna 2008: A Sardinian Delight

Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino di Sardegna is made from 100% vermentino grapes from the island of Sardinia.  It has a pleasing yellow color with a nice bouquet of floral notes and apples.  There is a balanced acidity and an elegance to this wine that makes it very pleasing to drink.  The finish is long but not dominating.  It's refreshing and uplifting.  On first taste I found a slight bitter tang to it.  As the wine opened up the acidity and apple flavors balanced out and showed very well.  I don't think you can go wrong with this 2008, it is a wine of character.  You can serve it with seafood, salads, even grilled vegetables.  Because it is nicely balanced with gentle acidity, I would try it with white meat, as well.

La Cala is produced at the Sella & Mosca winery in the northwest side of the island of Sardinia near the port of Alghero.  It is one of the largest wine estates in Europe.  The winery is run by Mario Consorte and is considered "A model of contemporary viniculure" by Hugh Johnson.

La Cala is not expensive and certainly worth the price of around $14.00.

I'm looking forward to having this wine during a long, hot summer afternoon.

Amarone: A Pillar of Italian Wine

Last year my son and daughter-in-law presented me with a bottle of Amarone 2005 Cantina di Negrar for my birthday.  I decided last Sunday to open it up and give it a shot.  Amarone can age for many years so I thought there was a good chance it would be ready in 2011.  I decanted it for a few hours before dinner to give it time to settle down and balance out.  Before I let you know how things went a few words about Amarone are in order.

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, or as it is commonly known as, Amarone, is one of the four pillars of Italian wine; the others being Brunello, Barolo and Barbaresco.  It comes from the hills north of the city of Veneto in the Valpolicella wine region.  Amarone is made from the partially dried grapes of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.  The grapes are place in a well-ventilated room for three to four months where the flavors become very concentrated.  It was awarded DOC status in 1990 and DOCG in 2009 (that's a good thing).

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC Cantina di Negrar 2005 was a pleasure to drink.  This was the first Amarone we have imbibed.  The bouquet was strong and consistent with a fruitiness and hints of cherries, chocolate and prunes.  The flavor was full-bodied and rich, well structured and exquisitely balanced, smooth and opulent. The tannins were soft with a gentle and enjoyable finish. After Mary, Angela and I took our first sips, we knew we were in the presence of a very, very fine wine.  Amarone goes beyond drinking a good wine.  Amarone gives true pleasure and is a delight.

 You can serve Amarone after decanting for two hours.  Serve it below room temperature because of the high  alcohol content.  Cost wise, Amarone can be rather steep.  Expect to spend over $30.00 easily.  However, I  believe it's worth the cost just to experience a fabulous wine.

Aglianico del Vulture: A Hidden Italian Treasure

Aglianico del Vulture is a wonderful wine.  It comes from Basilicata in Southern Italy and is made solely from the Aglianico grape.  It is grown in the very rich volcanic soil  that surrounds Mount Vulture.  It was awarded its DOC classification in 1971.  Many consider it the Barolo of the South.

The basic Aglianico must be aged at least one year before being released.  Aged Aglianico requires three years with a minimum of two years in oak.  The Riserva requires five years!

The wine itself shows fabulous balance, deep cherry and chocolate notes and a refreshing spiciness to the finish.  When young the wines are high in tannins and acidity. As the wine ages it takes on more earthy tones with deep, dark fruit.  Aglianico can become very full-bodied.

I find the wine very approachable.  Its cherry/chocolate notes are fabulously balanced.  The spice hits just as the  the other notes are fading leading to a long and enjoyable experience.  I find the wine very expressive and memorable.  It goes well with food, as well.  Mary made a fine Pasta Fagioli the other night which we served with the Aglianico.  The pairing was perfect.  Southern Italian wine with Southern Italian food, nothing can be better!

You can read more about Aglianico at Wine Review Online.com.

Enjoy!

Piri Piri: A Wonderful Night of Portuguese Fish and Wine

Not long ago, we passed by a new Portuguese restaurant, Piri Piri, on Herricks Rd. in Mineola.  It's a tad out of the way and located in an office building.  We decided to give it a try after our friends Sal and Marina let us know it was a  winner.  It's named after the spicy Portuguese sauce made from the African piri-piri chile pepper.

First the Food 

The restaurant is very handsome with a fine staff, Joao was our friendly waiter for the evening. The menu is classic Portuguese.  One of the owners, Roy, came to greet us and spoke of his family and a recent trip to Portugal.  We felt very relaxed and welcomed.  I'm sure things went so well in some measure since Mary is Portuguese and can speak and banter with the staff.

We were first served what I think was some very good traditional Portuguese hard bread and rolls. I've loved this bread since we first visited Mary's family on Madeira Island in 1971. The bread was served with spicy olives and marinated carrots.  The carrots were fabulous.

We both ordered soup.  Mary had a traditional caldo verde, which is kale and potato based.  It was thick and tasty.  Much thicker than usual.  I took one taste. It was superb.  Mary loved it.  I ordered a seafood soup.  This variety was less of a stew and more a true soup.  The broth was fabulous, possibly the best I've had.  The fresh fish aroma and taste combined perfectly.  It contained scallops, clams, lobster, and shrimp. The clams had a slighty refreshing ocean taste. There's nothing like feeling you are near the ocean when eating a seafood soup. Totally delightful.

The main course for Mary consisted of a bacalao (cod fish) with peppers, onions and boiled Portuguese potatoes.  Mary noted happily that the bacalao was not as salty as normal. The only negative was that the cod was every so slightly dry. It was a very enjoyable dish.

Not being Portuguese I thoroughly confused the waiter by ordering an appetizer for dinner.  With some coaching and a growing awareness on my part it all worked out.  I ordered octopus. It came sliced into small pieces in mild sauce and served with broccoli rabe, broccoli, carrots and the most delicious boiled and then fried potatoes. The octopus was done perfectly and was delicious. I spiced it up with a mild but tasty piri piri sauce our waiter shared with us.

Now the Wine

The waitress brought us a wine list that included the usual fare but on closer examination the flip side contained a listing of Portuguese whites and reds.  Vinho Verde, such as a Quinta da Aveleda, Casal Garcia or a Gazela, is what we usually order when going Portuguese.  This night was no different but we went with a slight variation.  We tried a slightly higher end Muralhas de Moncao Vinho Verde.  It is 70% Alvarhinho and 30% Trajadura. It was mildly and pleasantly aromatic. Besides the usual green fruits of most Vinho Verdes it showed specific apricot notes with a firm body and an ever so subtle effervescence.  Mary thought the finish was slightly bitter but fully enjoyed the wine.  This was a nice find.

We highly recommend Piri Piri.  The food is very good, moderately priced and served in ample quantity. It's located at 100 Herricks Rd in Mineola, Long Island.  The phone number is 516 873-9277.

Sumptuous Cuban Food at Miami's David's Cafe II

Hi everybody! This is my third restaurant review for Wine Tasters. This time I’m at David’s Cafe II located in Miami Beach about a mile from where we were staying. David’s Café II has been open since 1977 and is open 24/7. A friend of mine highly recommended this fine Cuban restaurant so we thought we would give it a shot. We were filled with anticipation and hoped it would stand up to its reputation.

We arrived at David’s Cafe around 9 PM on a Wednesday in late August. The awning is turquoise and the outside walls are white. I could see that the locals eat here so I was assuming the place might be good. I got a Miami vibe when I stepped into the restaurant itself. I saw cops eating as well as Cubans. As soon as I walked in I could smell the butter and toasted bread. My hunger started to rise immediately because of the awesome aromas. There is both a café and restaurant sections.

The picture above is of the café (courtesy Johnny N.). The café has a diner feel to it except that the restaurant is Cuban, not Greek. The hostess brought us to the restaurant area. There weren't many people eating there at 9. I guess we were a little late by Miami standards. One thing that I noticed in Miami is that the air conditioners are always blasting cool air because the humidity is so high. The restaurant area has a nice brown décor. There were pictures of many famous people, especially Cuban stars.

Here is our order with estimated prices:

Appetizer: Masas de Puerco Frito (Marinated Pork Chunks) - $8 (estimated)
Dinner: Ropo Vieja Habanera (steak Cuban style topped with sautéed onions and lemon garlic sauce) $15.95, Bistec de Palomilla (shredded flank steak in sauce) $16.25 (estimate)

Total Bill: $47 w/tip (estimate)

Source: davidscafe.com

We were first served pressed Cuban bread. The texture was similar to Italian bread except the crust was smoother and thinner. The bread was soaked in butter. The taste and texture of the bread was amazing. Very fattening but I was on vacation so it’s all good.

Masitas de Puerco (marinated fried pork chunks)

This appetizer is fried pork chunks with onion and cheese. The thought of frying pork was salivating. The pork was a tad overdone but was very tasty. It was definitely marinated in something, not sure what. The onions and the cheese made a great combination with the pork. I never had fried pork prepared this way before. I have pork chops on occasion with onion and on the bbq. The juices of the pork squirted out when I bit into it. And of course I used the bread to soak up the pork juice that was left on the plate. For $8 the dish was worth it.

Bisteca de Palomilla (grilled steak Cuban style topped with sautéed onions and lemon garlic sauce)

The steak was pounded very thin. The onions resided on top of the steak and with a side order of mashed potatoes. The lemon garlic sauce was smothering the steak. The meat absorbed a lot of the sauce which made the steak extra tasty! When I cut a piece of the steak, I made sure to absorb more of the delicious lemon garlic sauce. The steak was hot, grilled to a perfect texture and not burnt. The meat was not chewy. As a matter of fact, it was very easy to eat. The combination of the lemon garlic sauce and onions really enhanced the flavor of the steak. I enjoyed this steak a bunch!!!

Ropa Vieja Habanera(shredded flank steak in sauce)

My wife Angela loved her meal:

"I decided to go with the Ropa Vieja at David's Cafe. Now, I have had Ropa Vieja before in two other Cuban places in New York. I thought those were good, but looking back they were only mediocre. When I tasted David's version of this classic Cuban dish, I was blown away. The beef was unbelievably tender and juicy from the great sauce in which it was cooked. It had infused itself with the sauce containing flavors of peppers and onions. The beef melted in my mouth, it was unbelievable. It had come with rice and black beans, that were tasty, basic sides. I saved the plantains as a little dessert for after my incredible meal. They were cooked just right, candied and juicy, not dry at all. The meal was delectable, and perfectly cooked."

If you are in Miami and want very good Cuban food, you must try David’s Café (one or two). If I had more time to spend in Miami I would be there often. The food hits the spot and for the price the quantities served are just right.

Scale 1-10 (1 is gross and 10 is stupendous)

Location: 8
Décor: 8
Food: 9.5
Service: 8
Price: 9
Overall: 8.5

David's Cafe‎

1654 Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach, FL‎ 33139 (305) 672-8707‎
Hours: 24/7

David's Cafe - Google Maps

Transit: 17 St@Meridian Av (0.1 mi) Bus #101, 112, 113, 117, 119, 123

David John Oliva