Memorial Day, 2010: Rosso di Montalcino, Blumeri Rosso, Vernaccia

We celebrated Memorial Day with our traditional family barbecue with friends and family that had a decidedly Tuscan and Italian theme.  For antipasto we offered Italian Olives, Pecorino Toscana with drizzled Tuscan chestnut honey, a creamy Asiago and a platter of assorted Italian meats (Genoa salami, cappicolla, mortadella, prosciutto), home made roasted red peppers and a round Sicilian bread with Extra Virgin Olive Oil for dipping. I complemented this array of delights with a Rosso di Montalcino, Valdicava 2007 that was just ready to be enjoyed.  This is what one might describe as a massive Rosso.  My good friend Alden described it graphically with his hands flailing upwards, unable to find a word that captured the wines expansive quality.  It had a luxurious nose, quite strong to start but more muted with time.  Red cherries led to a mild but seductive spiciness. It possessed a distinct sense of body and structure.  The feel was smooth and luscious with a long, relatively delicate finish.  This Rosso combined size and delicacy in a superb manner with fine tannins.  Rosso di Montalcino, Valdicava makes it clear why the Rosso is sometimes called a "baby Brunello." Our sister-in-law, a decidedly but critical red wine lover, fully enjoyed this Rosso as did Mary and Alden. 

For entrees, beside the usual burgers (beef, turkey, salmon) and franks we had a beautiful and tasty Tuscan salad, grilled vegetables (portobello mushrooms, zucchini, and eggplant), and a fresh pasta salad with farfalle, peppers and artichokes.  I broke out a 2003 Schiopetto Podere Dei Blumeri Rosso.  This is a Rosso from more nothern climes in Colli Orientali.  It is a blend of 70% Merlot, 10% Cabernet and 20% Refosco.  The nose was a tad muted.  The color was deep ruby.  It was delicate with deep tannins, beautiful balance and a fine smooth finish.  I had a distinct sense of concentration and inwardness to this wine in contrast to the expansiveness of the Rosso di Montalcino.  The influence of the Merlot was quite evident.

For the white wine lovers I presented an outstanding Tuscan Alata Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, 2008. Vernaccia is a famous Tuscan grape.  This Alata Vernaccia had a distinct yellow/gold color with a medium body so rare in most whites.  This was no Pinot Grigio! We picked up hints of citrus, peaches, and kiwis underscored by a crisp minerality; it was not too dry but very lively on the palate.  The medium body gave it substance and a gravitas that was very enjoyable.  Although our friend Ed did not favor this wine our daughter-in-law was a big fan. For my taste, this white stands out.  I recall drinking Vernaccia when in Italy two years ago.  This wine brought me back to many pleasing memories.

Mary and I had a very exciting time this Memorial Day.  Thank you all for coming to our shindig.  Also a shout out to Milan of Young's Fine Wines and Spirits for his assistance.

Organic Wine

I've been asked on a few occasions to write about organic wines.  Well, here are a few notes that may be helpful.

Organic wine is wine that bears the USDA organic seal.  It must be made from grapes that are grown organically and give information about the certifying agency. It cannot contain any sulfites, although it may have some naturally occurring sulfites.  Wines grown with organic grapes but not considered organic wine, on the other hand, can contain added sulfites. Keep in mind it is difficult to have no sulfites in wine since it is a byproduct of fermentation. There are three basic categories to look for:

• 100% Organic (wines made with 100% certified grapes), 

• Organic (wines that have at least 95% of ingredients from organic sources), 

• Made with Organic Grapes (wine that is, at least, 70% organic).  

 The second and third categories of  wine can contain added sulfites. 

Why drink organic wine?  

Well, unfortunately, grapes are one of the most sprayed crops grown.  Many wine lovers are interested in finding alternatives to conventional wines.  Organic wines may be healthier, more flavorful, have greater local (terroir) character and sometimes may be less expensive.  It is certainly worth the effort to try some organic wines to see what you think.  For starters you can try wine from some of the following producers:

Ecowine.com may be a place to start. They offer some interesting buys and seem committed to the organic process.

Benziger Family Winery is a California based winery that has for over thirty years used biodynamic, organic and sustainable farming methods to produce their wine.

The Organic Wine Company offers a sophisticated and intelligent site that is both educational and consumer oriented. You can order wines from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, California, New Zealand, Argentina and Chile. It's worth the visit.

Organic Wine Press attempts to make shopping for organic wines simple and easy. They offer organic wines from around the world. The wines are all Organic and No Spray. Gift baskets can also be ordered. 

There are many, many more organic wine alternatives. I've only listed a few that may be good starting points for you.

For those of you who want to read about organic wines and issues pertaining to them the Organic Wine Journal may be just up your alley. The Journal offers wide ranging articles about organic wines, wine growing and other issues focused on the organic wine experience.

In the end, don't neglect the fact that wine tasting is for pleasure. Whether the wines are organic or conventional, drink those that you like. Don't sacrifice taste for ideology. I'm sure you will find a good organic wine if you take the time to look. Fortunately, today's market supports a very wide range of accessible organic wines. 

Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir 2007

I picked this wine up at Young's Fine Wines in Manhasset.  Kim Cladwell recommended it as a very reasonably priced Pinot Noir.  It is from Jim Clendenen, a well-respected vintner in Santa Barbara County.  I recall that the price was somewhere in the upper $20 range.  But I'm not sure of the actual price.

Jim Clendenen started Au Bon Climat (a well exposed vineyard) in 1982 after being an assistant winemaker at Zaca Mesa and then spending time in both Australia and France.  Au Bon Climat, under Jim Clendenen, is known for excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Germany's leading wine magazine, Wein Gourmet, in 2004 named Clendenen “Winemaker of the World;” and in 2007, Jim was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America.”  You can read about the vineyard and Jim Clendenen on his excellent web site.

My tasting notes show that this wine is a great entry-level Pinot Noir.  It is very well balanced with a silky smoothness that is very appealing.  It has nice plum notes, level acidity and a fullness in the mouth without being syrupy. It is pleasingly dry.  I found myself really enjoying every taste.  It's a classy wine that shows itself above most wines at this price range.  I give this a very high rating.  It's nice to have a Pinot Noir that is inexpensive but gives the "feel" of the more expensive labels.  Give this one a shot or more like a glass full. Thanks Kim.

Portuguese Red: Vale Do Bomfim

On this Blessed Easter 2010, Mary picked up what was to us an unknown Portuguese red wine, Vale Do Bomfim 2007 from the renowned Douro Valley.  Mary had decided to go with a rich baked ziti for the main course at dinner.  A nice hearty red seemed to be a natural as an accompaniment.  I wasn't sure what to expect having never imbibed this particular wine.  Before getting into the tasting notes perhaps a little background is in order.

Vale Do Bomfim is produced by the Symington family.  The Symingtons have been a major producer of Portuguese port wine for many years.  The family can trace its port producing history through 13 generations.  In addition, they manage two major wineries, Bomfim and Sol in Portugal's Douro Valley.  The family history is of interest. I suggest you go to Primium Famillae Vini to read a fascinating history of the family and its commitment to quality wine.

The wine itself is a blend of five Portuguese grapes:  Tinta Barroca (58%), Tinta Roriz (15%), Touriga Nacional (14%), Tinto Cao (8%), and Tinta Amarela (5%).  I decanted for about an hour.  I will try a longer process next time around.  This blend of grapes is very satisfying and a fine accompaniment to the baked ziti.  It has a deep, pleasing red color, nice legs, and a nose that is full but short.  It is sensually seductive with a slight astringent whiff at the top.  The taste is of strong red cherries and berries and an assertive spiciness.  The spice was not dominant, however. At one  point, I thought I noted both the aroma and taste of chocolate. It is well structured with good tannins.  The overall sense is of balance and solid medium body.  It feels good in the mouth, not too big, not too small but does come in at a hefty 14.5%.  My only criticism is that of the other red Portuguese wines, they lack a certain complexity that would put them in a class with the world's great wines.  Having said that, I totally enjoyed the blend and look forward to future purchases.  It is a bargain, as so many Portuguese wines are, at about $12.00 a bottle.

This is a winner.

Santo Stefano 2008 Pinot Grigio

I'm not a Pinot Grigo fan.  So much of what passes as acceptable is rather weak and tasteless.  But there are exceptions.  The other night, Mary produced a wonderful dinner consisting of a pan fried veal chop with sweet peppers and onions, with a sweet potato and mushrooms as perfect side dishes.  The wine at hand was a Santo Stefano 2008 Pinot Gregio.  This wine comes from the Veneto region.  It was a very pleasant surprise.  It was crisp, lively, with nice fruit and an almost honey flavor.  The finish was long and elegant, very fresh and exciting.  At first taste the fruit exploded to the roof of my mouth and lingered downwards.  It was straw colored with an odd pinkish hue.  Very different.  The Wine Grapevine  reviewed it very favorably:

"The De Stefani family have been tending their vines and producing wines for four generations in the Veneto region.Their Pinot Grigio is produced from grapes from their Pra' Longo estate and their belief is that the clay soil there, combined with its proximity to both the sea and the mountains, gives the wine a unique character and produces impressive complexity and depth of flavour. Its delicate and elegant nose offers attractive fresh fruit, which follows through to a rich, smooth, full-bodied palate. Although the sumptuous fruit dominates, there is underlying nuttiness to add interest and it feels smooth and well-balanced throughout the long, flavoursome finish."

I recommend this wine.  It's enjoyable and gives much more than the usual Pinot Gregio.  You will enjoy the price, as well. 

Ruffino Orvieto Classico 2008

Mary and I opened a Ruffino Orvieto Classico, 2008 for lunch today. It was surprisingly good with crisp acidity and a wonderfully floral bouquet. At first it showed a strong hint of green apple but later it turned to a lush scent and taste of ripe pear. The finish was long and opulent. Most surprising was the subtle taste of honey and hints of lemon zest which were complimented by great balance and structure. We had found the 2007 vintage rather bitter and unappealing. What a nice surprise on a snowy winter's day. Oh, and it's very affordable at around $10.00. I highly recommend this wine for nice light dishes.  

Ruffino Orvieto Classico is 50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto, 10% Verdello, and 10% Canailol Bianco.  Vinification is all stainless steel.  No oak here.   

This wine begs for fish dishes such as scallops, shrimp, flounder in butter sauce, etc.  Its crisp acidity does wonders for all fish based recipes.  We actually had it today with a home made guacamole dip made from fresh avocado.   It was superb and complemented the oily base of the avocado. We normally have this wine on a warm, summer's day but it showed itself well during mid-winter.  This is clearly the sign of a versatile and pleasing wine. 

I hope you enjoy this wine as much as we did.  Give it a try. 

Portuguese Red Wines - Cardeal and Monte Da RavasQuiera

Portuguese table wines are gaining in popularity. In my younger days I drank my share of Mateus. I really liked the bottles. Mateus is a sweetish, carbonated wine that is still sold ubiquitously around the world. But Portugal has come a long way and has moved beyond not only Mateus but the also the traditional Port and Madeira wines for which it has been known for many years. Good Portuguese wines are grown in both the north and south. The northern regions consist of Douro, Dao and Barraida. In the south there are Estremedura and Ribatejo, which includes Peter Brights very interesting efforts. Of course, there is Madeira known for its port wine.

Today I want to talk about two Portuguese wines from the north. The first is Cardeal Reserva 2007. This wine is produced from the Touriga-Nacional grape. Although this grape is used largely for port wines of the Douro, it is also being used for good quality table wines. The Cardeal was very pleasant to drink. The color was not a fully deep red but quite attractive. The legs were copius with a 13.5% alcohol content. The nose was lively and full of berries and I think plum. I immediately had the feel of an earthy, rustic element. I had the sense of really smashing those grapes with my feet. It was down home. The wine lingered on the tongue but not overly long. There was the hint of oak although I'm not sure how it is produced. The wine overall seemed to lack a certain integration. It also seemed a tad too simple. It is a very enjoyable red but not all one would want in a great wine.

The second wine is Monte Da RavasQuiera 2007 from Alentejo-Catavino. From the estate of the same name this wine is a very nice blend: 40% Trincadeira, 20% Touriga-Nacional, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Tempranillo, 10% Touriga Franca and 5% Alicante Bouchet. The color was deep and red with a nose of cherry, blackberry and spice. It had great balance, fullness and some complexity. The tannins were smooth. The finish was long and enjoyable. Although not as complex as it might be the smoothness and the balance were very enjoyable. There was a regal, upper class feel. I felt like a member of the royal palace. Not bad at all. I found that with some time the wine grew more enjoyable. In fact, the second day was superior to the first. It takes quite a bit of time for this wine to find itself and open up to higher potential.

Both of these wines are very enjoyable, if not the most complex. They are worth the time and effort to purchase and are reasonably priced.