The Salty Caper Review – My Search for the Perfect New York Pizza by Rob Green

There are two things in this world that true New Yorkers will refuse to eat (and with good cause) outside of the New York Metro region:  Bagels and Pizza.  All bread dough whether it is for pizza, bagels or various breads contain their fair share of water. Pizza dough has somewhere between 40 and 60 percent water content. This makes New York tap water the most important ingredient in what many consider the finest culinary breakthrough Gotham City has to offer:  New York Style Pizza.  This post is the story of an unexpected culinary pizza surprise while visiting Salisbury, North Carolina.

Setting the Scene

Salisbury, North Carolina is situated approximately an hour north of Charlotte.  It's a small rural town with open fields of soy beans and corn, livestock, fresh clean air, a starry filled night sky and a quietness that allows one to drift into the best sleeps of their life.  Like any other town in America, Salisbury is flooded with its fair share of fast food joints intermingled with the occasional family run restaurant of which nine out of ten offer good ole' southern bar-b-que. 

The Salty Caper: First Impressions and Calzones

The Salty Caper has a simplistic rustic look yet the dim lighting, upbeat music and friendly welcome from the staff made the place feel like it had been my neighbourhood waterhole for years.  I sat at the bar and asked the manager to tell me about the available beers.  He was extremely knowledgeable about all of his selections and even allowed me to try a few before settling on ordering a pint.  As I sat there with a good friend of mine (both of us watching Mikey the head chef toss some pizza dough and apply toppings to it before setting it in a wood fired oven), I couldn't help but take a gander at the menu. 

Much to my surprise, the menu was dominated by several different pizzas with other options including calzones and salads.  In true New York fashion, I decided to take the first jab and asked Mikey if his pizza could stand up to New York’s.  He gave a smile and answered with an enthusiastic "hell yea."  I wasn’t quite ready to take the leap and ordered a calzone.  The calzone came out perfectly puffed up, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.  The drizzle of chocolate and sprinkle of powdered sugar over the top capped off a delicious plate.  So these guys can make a good dessert, but there's no way I want to taste that dough baked in a wood fired oven and topped with items that make it slightly resemble a real pizza.

Southern Pizza: The Real Deal

We returned the next night to have a few more beers and of course get in our fair share of New York banter with these southerners and their drawl.  Only on this night, my stomach was craving more than a dessert calzone could satisfy.  I asked the all important question, before even contemplating ordering a pizza.  "So do you import water from New York to make your dough?"  The manager turned around from the beer taps facing the opposite wall and said "No, I import the dough itself from New York".  

Their pizza of all pizzas consisted of a tomato sauce base with mozzarella and gorgonzola cheeses, Canadian bacon, ground chorizo, red onions, pine nuts and a drizzle of bar-b-que sauce.  The ingredients create a perfect harmony of sweet, salty, cheesy goodness with the twang of the bar-b-que sauce that sends your taste buds over the edge.  All of this scrumptiousness set atop a pizza crust that although not perfect, still qualifies as the best pizza dough crust I've had below the Mason/Dixon line.  

To wash it all down, go with one of the Caper's signature beer concoctions: Red Sin.  This mixture combines Original Sin cider ale with a southern soft drink staple, Cheerwine (a black cherry flavoured soda).  The mix combines to form the carbonated, alcoholic version of Snapple CranApple which is the perfect mix of sweet and tangy.

Lasting Notes

To the pizza snobs of the world (myself included), I serve as witness that great pizza can be made outside of the New York Metro region.   And to all those attempting to recreate the real deal, stop buying 55 gallon drums of New York tap water, stop having our water chemically analyzed and buying machines to recreate the mineral content.  Do yourself a favour and take a page out of The Salty Caper's book by leaving the pizza dough making to New Yorkers and putting your twist on a classic New York pie through innovative, creative toppings.  Yes, the importing of pre-made dough from New York will drive the cost of a pizza pie up significantly more than your standard Domino's pie, but that is a price I (and judging by the success of The Salty Caper) and numerous others are willing to pay for a pizza worthy of being called "New York Style."

Website:  http://www.saltycaper.com

Wine Tasting: The Five S's

Wine tasting differs profoundly from wine drinking.  To truly taste wine there is a clear and definite process you can follow that enhances all aspects of the wine experience.  This process is known as Wine's Five S's.  These five simple steps can help you more fully enjoy wine and to deepen your ability to communicate your experience to others. Wine tasting is both a solitary and social endeavor.  The Five S's can heighten your enjoyment in both areas.


The Five S's


You've probably seen people very pretentiously holding wine glasses up in the air, swirling the glass, making sniffing noises and pontificating about their wine.  They, in their own way, are using the Five S's.  Putting aside the pomposity, the Five S's are truly helpful steps to enjoying wine tasting.  The Five S's are:

• See
• Swirl 
• Sniff 
• Sip 
• and Savor.  

All are very simple and doable.  When done properly the Five S's open up a vista of enjoyment and camaraderie you may not have contemplated.  Let's get started.
See 
Pour some wine into a clear wine glass.  It's important that the glass is clear and allows a full, unencumbered view of the wine.  You are looking for clarity and color.  The color of a wine can tell you much about the wine.  It may indicate its age.  The color of wine changes over time.  Take a moment to look at the wine. If it's a white wine  it may be gold, straw or watery white in color.  If the wine is red it may be ruby, purple or garnet.  Wines can vary widely in color depending on the grape varietal and its age.


Swirl 


This is one of my favorite steps.  Take the glass in your hands, holding it by stem or the base.  Your wrist needs to be held stiff.  Now swirl or rotate the glass.  The wine will swirl around the glass leaving what are called legs, long streams of wine.  The swirling allows more oxygen to mix with the wine allowing it to breathe and open up its aromas.  It may also give some hint as to the age of the wine. 


Sniff


After you have swirled the wine place the glass at your chest and breathe in.  What do you detect?  Next, bring the glass to your chin and breathe in again.  What do you sense now?  Finally, bring the wine glass to your nose and take in a very full breath.  If you noticed an aroma at the chest level, the wine could be classified as highly aromatic.  Some wines are barely aromatic at all and are classified as neutral.  Red wines generally show earthiness, red berries, chocolate. vanilla and spice.  White wines present  apples, pears, melons, gooseberry and strawberries.   


Sip 
Now you are ready to sip.  Pick up the glass and imbibe a good but modest amount of wine.  After the wine enters your mouth breathe in some air.  This will send oxygen to the wine opening up its flavors and aromas even more. Let the wine curl around your mouth.  Your taste buds will take care of the rest.  


Savor
As you are swirling the wine around your mouth, begin to savor it.  Note your sensations.  Are you picking up sweetness?  Is your mouth dry?  What about fruit and other flavors?  Do you get a sensation of fullness or lightness?  And what of the finish?  Does the flavor of the wine stay with you for a brief time or much longer?.  Is the finish sweet or bitter?  Did your savoring differ from what you sniffed?  You may notice layers of flavors in a good wine.  In fact, a good wine will change as it sits.  Watch for these changes.  


If you take some time with the Five S's, you  will begin to connect with the wine in very unexpected ways.  You may be surprised at what you experience.  I remember the thrill of picking up a strong whiff and taste of pineapple in a California Sauvignon Blanc.  Keep in mind, at the beginning you may not be able to pick up many aromas and flavors or you may find it difficult to distinguish one from the other.  Do not despair, it takes time.  But with some effort you  will grow to fully enjoy the wonderful world of wine tasting.  


Salute!

Good Party Wines

Having a party can be a wonderful yet stressful experience.  Whether the party is large or small there's a lot of preparation that goes into making it successful.  Choosing the right wine is a key piece to the success and enjoyment of any shindig.  I have a few ideas about party wine selection that may take some of the angst out of the decision making process and simultaneously give you the satisfaction of providing your guests with quality wine selections. 

When it comes to selecting wines for a party, I have found that many people rely on overly sweet and mass produced wines of lower quality.  The justification is simple: cost!  Party givers usually have a budget of some sort when contemplating wine purchases.  However, one does not have to sacrifice quality even on a tight budget.  With a little exploration, wines can be found that will bring enjoyment to your guests while they mingle, talk and eat.  The wines should also compliment a wide range of foods usually offered at a party. Let's get started.

The Plan

• It's critical to have an assortment of reds, whites and possibly roses on hand. In the world of wine there are always those who "only like white" or "only like reds."  Having both on hand is important to give your guests adequate choice.  

• Party wines need to be familiar, at least for the most part.  If you stock up on dry Riesling your guests may balk at drinking something they are unfamiliar with.  You don't want people experimenting with wine when you actually want them relaxed and talking. However, as you will see, offering new versions of old favorites can be a winner.  Also, slipping in new and accessible wines can add an exciting dimension for your guests.

•  Since you will be buying in bulk, attempt to sample the wines you have chosen before hand.  Buy a few bottles well in advance of the party to make sure the wine is what you are comfortable with and corresponds to what you know of your guests' tastes.  Knowing the level of wine sophistication of party goers can help immensely in the planning process.  

The Wine

 Many parties I have been to offer cheap Californian or Australian wines.  Although drinkable, they do not represent the quality one can achieve at comparable prices.  Inexpensive American Merlots, Cabs and  Chardonnays are often dull, weak or too sweet to impress.  Another favorite, Pinot Grigio, is usually too thin and characterless to show well.

My advice is to look at a wider range of wines that are inexpensive and offer great variety and top notch taste.  All of the wines I list below can be purchased between $10 and $15.  

Whites

Pinot Grigio - Often the butt of jokes, Pinot Grigio can be tasteless and lackluster.  However, there are Pinot Grigios that stand out.  When purchasing, look or ask for Pinots that come from the Friuli area of Italy.   
Ruffino Orvieto Classico -This is a very charming and tasteful wine that is inexpensive but enjoyable with nice fruit for your guests to ponder.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc -SBs are a great crowd pleaser.  This wine is refreshing, crisp and especially good for summer parties. I suggest you stay away from some of the over the top labels that exhibit too much gooseberry and grapefruit . 
Muscadet - From the Loire Valley in France, Muscadet is a dry, pleasant, juicy but sometimes tart wine with good body and complexity.  It will impress your guests. 
Vinho Verde - Especially good for party's in warmer weather, the Portuguese Vinho Verde possesses great minerality, crispness, refreshing fruit and is mildly effervescent.  

Reds 

Portuguese Reds - These wines are becoming available in greater quantities than every before.  The reds are rich, earthy, and dry.  Guests will be intrigued and pleased by the experience.  Portuguese reds are still inexpensive.  I highly recommend them.  Look for reds from the Douro Valley.
Pinot Noir - Granted, really good Pinot Noir is costly.  But there are inexpensive labels available that are fruity and nicely acidic that can please any crowd.  PNs are lighter bodied, more delicate reds that are exceptional.  I am particular to Oregon State but good, inexpensive California Pinot Noirs are there for the picking. 
Cabernet Sauvignon - Great Cabs are being grown in Latin America. Chile and Argentina have produced exceptional vintages.  The Chilean Cabs are spicy and herbal and even express hints of chocolate.  Guests will be intrigued. 
Beaujolais-Village - This French wine is an easy but very enjoyable, soft red.  White wine drinkers may find the Beaujolais-Village quite enjoyable.  Its addition to the party menu will give guests greater choice and add to their experience.  Do not mistake Beaujolais-Village with Beaujolais Nouveau.
Spanish Rioja - Wines from the Rioja region in Spain are up and coming.  They are based on two major grapes, Tempranillo and Granacha with most wines being blends of the two.  Rioja is noted for the use of oak in its wines.  These are earthy and spicy.  Your guests might notice the French influence and be intrigued. 

There are numerous wines you can chose that do not sacrifice taste but are easy on the pocket book.  Wine can be an integral and enjoyable aspect to any party or gathering.  By taking a little time to focus on the quality of wine you purchase, your guests can have a memorable experience.  You don't have to break the bank to offer exceptional wine to your friends and associates.   You might also find tasting the wine before hand an enriching experience in itself.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments. 

Good luck!

Rose: Chateau Guiot 2009 - A Real Summer Treat

Roses are great for the summer.  The best roses are light and exhilarating.  You can enjoy them outdoors as an aperitif at a barbecue, family party or sitting around the pool.  One excellent rose is Chateau Guiot, Costieres de Nimes 2009.  Mary and I were introduced to this rose by Kim Caldwell of Young's Fine Wines at a recent wine tasting given by Kim. 

The Chateau Guiot Rose has a fantastically deep rose color, deeper than most roses I've had.  It is 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah.  The nose is reminiscent of rose petals, cherries and ripe strawberries.  The taste is of ripe fruit and red berries.  It does all of this without being overly sweet.  This is a far cry from the Berringer and Mateus Roses some of you might remember from some years ago (they are still around today, if that's your thing).  I am especially impressed with the harmonious and well structured qualities of the wine.  You will find this rose quite enjoyable on a hot, slow summer's day or evening. 

There are really endless possibilities for pairing rose with food.  Roses are great with tapas, salads and vegetables. Cold grilled asparagus is an exceptional pair with rose.  Grilled shrimp and tuna go great with the more full bodied roses.  You can pair rose with savory chicken and pork easily enough, as well.  Rose is a very versatile wine.   Try one with cold salty meats that enhance the rose's flavor.  Experiment, I think you will be surprised.

Another great aspect of the Chateau Guiot is its price.  You can pick up a bottle for around  $10.00.

Enjoy!

Leitz Rheingau Riesling 2009: A Superb Wine for Summer

The 2009 vintage of Josef Leitz' Eins Zwei Dry Riesling is superb.  Hailing from the Rheingau region in Germany with south facing slopes and high, cool altitudes, this vintage contains a marvelous acidity that is refreshing, lively but not overwhelming. There is no sweetness here.  Acidity is its most prominent feature.  It is highly aromatic, crisp and laced with lemon, peach and apple. The finish is long and very pleasing.  I found this Riesling very alive.  There's a great deal of activity going on.  Each taste awakened me to a new level of appreciation.  Never shocking, the Eins Zwei Dry is a spectacular success. Each sip is new and exciting.  My palate never tired of the experience.  If you appreciate dry Riesling this will not disappoint.

By the way, the Leitz 2009 is a QbA.  This is a EU designation indicating that the wine is of quality and comes from a designated region.

Another positive about the Riesling is its price.  At Young's Fine Wines in Manhasset it sells for $14.95.  Considering the high quality of this wine the price is right.  It is affordable for everyday use.  I unreservedly recommend it.  Stock up and enjoy.  

Restaurant Review: Ornella Trattoria Italiana by David Oliva

Hi everybody! This is my second review for Wine Taters.  This time I’m reviewing an Italian restaurant called Ornella Trattoria Italiana located in Astoria close to Ditmars Blvd. Ornella has been open for a few years. A co-worker of mine highly recommended it. I was filled with anticipation and hoped it stood up to its reputation.

We arrived at Ornella Trattoria around 7 PM on a very pleasant Friday in June. The front of the restaurant is entirely glass. The door and front wall allowed a fresh breeze to come in. There are a few tables outside if you choose to eat there.  My wife and I were greeted immediately as we entered.

The restaurant is not wide but it is long. There is just enough room to walk through as the waiters and waitresses scurry by. The walls are painted nicely with artwork depticing an Italian village.  We did feel as if we were in Italy. Once we were seated we were ready to order. 

Here is our order with estimated prices:

Antipasti:  Buffalo Mozzarella, Arugula, and Prosciutto di Parma (special of the day) - $10 (estimated)
Dinner: Rigatoni Alla Matriciana - $15, and Short ribs with Gnocchi and Brown Sauce - $21
Dessert: Tiramisu - $5 (estimated)
Wine: Half Carafe of Pinot Grigio $15 (estimated)
Total Bill: $85 w/tip (estimate)

Source: Ornella Trattoria Italiana

We were first served brucshetta on toasted Italian bread. The brucshetta was very good. I remember tasting all of the ingredients when taking a big bite.  I could eat this all day, it was so good. As a free item, the brucshetta was a great piece of the meal.

Buffalo Mozzarella, Arugula, and Prosciutto Di Parma

This special antipasti of the day interested me the most. I can never refuse a Buffalo mozzarella dish.  Since my wife (Angela) loves Arugula (I do not), I was able to taste the mozzerella and Prosciutto di Parma in its finest forms. The mozzarella was good, not great, but good. The prosciutto was excellent! The slices were cut thin and the taste was amazing.  Angela said the Arugula was outstanding. Overall, everything on the dish was well balanced.

Rigatoni Alla Matriciana


The Rigatoni Alla Matriciana contains tomato sauce, guanciale, onions and fresh peas (I do not like peas so I told the waiter to hold them). The rigatoni was cooked Al Dente. The sauce had some tomato skin and a great taste. There was a little kick to the sauce. As I started to eat I liked it more and more. I think the reason for that was that I started to taste more of the garlic, which I love. For $15 the portion size was average but the quality was above average.

Short ribs with Gnocchi and Brown Sauce

Angela ordered the ribs and found them very tender with the meat falling off the bone. The gnocchi was light with a perfect texture. You can tell that the gnocchi was homemade. I have been in restaurants where the gnocchi is hard and tasteless. This gnocchi was one of the best I have ever eaten in my life. To top if off, the brown sauce complimented the whole meal. If you are to put all the ingredients in your mouth at one time, you will be in heaven. This dish was simply amazing. . The quantity was just right. But the price of $21 was expensive for my taste. With the price aside, when you go to Ornella’s this is a must order!

Pinot Grigio

The wine was a simple house wine, a Pinot Grigio.  The wine was not fantastic, but it went well with the meal.  I have had better wines, but this wine was satisfactory for the dinner it accompanied.  Basic Pinot flavor, nothing outstanding.
  

Tiramisu

The Tiramisu had a wonderful balance between the Marscapone and the Espresso.  The Lady Fingers were perfectly soaked in the Espresso.  The flavor of this Tiramisu was unique and different from other Tiramisu's I have had.  I cannot put my finger on it, but whatever it was, it took the Tiramisu to another level of flavor. The Tiramisu was homemade and the texture was phenomenal. The cake melted in my mouth while savoring the flavor. I was full from eating dinner but couldn’t refuse the cake once I had one taste of it.
  
I highly recommend Ornello Trattoria for both the food and the friendly service. The owner Giuseppe spoke with us and is a very pleasant man. He is filled with energy and passion towards his restaurant. Thank you Giusseppe, we had a great time and will be back!

Scale 1-10 (1 is gross and 10 is stupendous)

Location: 8
Décor: 9.5
Food: 9
Service: 9.5
Price: 7
Overall: 9

Ornella Trattoria Italiana
2917 23rd Avenue, Astoria, NY 11105
(718) 777-9477‎

Hours:
Mon    12pm    –    10pm
Tue     12pm    –    10pm
Wed   12pm    –    10pm
Thu     12pm    –    10pm
Fri      12pm    –    10pm
Sat     12pm    –    11pm
Sun    12pm    –    11pm

Transit: Astoria-Ditmars Blvd Station (0.2 mi) 


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Good, Inexpensive Summer Whites

Summer is upon us. It's the time of year when I start to look for nice inexpensive wines I can sit on the patio and sip with lunch during a hot afternoon. There are many good buys.  But I want to let you in on some of my favorites.  Eating a lunch of salmon, olives and artichoke hearts is one of my favorite past-times. Adding a wonderfully crisp and succulent white wine is the best accompaniment I can think of. When the wine is inexpensive, all the better.

Gazela Vinho Verde: This is a real favorite of mine.  It is a straw colored, almost transparent white from Portugal.  It is a splendid aperitif for summer.  To enjoy this wine you have to be prepared for the green part.  The green relates to the youth of the wine not it's color.  This wine is meant to be enjoyed very young.  In fact, Gazela has done away with any vintage date at all.  It pours with a froth that comes from added carbonation.  The carbonation is very light with only a few bubbles left behind.  This is a simple, crisp, refreshing, and dry wine that goes with fish or any light summer lunch.  It's nicely acidic with good balance.  If you let the Vinho Verdi be itself you can grow to fully appreciate what it offers.  It's only 9% alcohol but don't be fooled.  The Gazela goes for well under $10.00. 
 

C.M.S 2007: This is a relatively recent find. The wine is produced at White and Hedges in Washington State's Columbia Valley.  As the name implies it is a blend of 35% Chardonnay, 1% Marsanne, and 64% Sauvignon Blanc.  This is a very different and exciting wine.  The nose is exceptional, a strong bouquet of lemon, pineapple and pear, very aromatic. The texture is buttery and oily on the palate reflecting the Chardonnay.  Just below the surface come the elements of a great Sauvignon Blanc with notes of pineapple, gooseberry and pear.  The feeling is full in the mouth with a rich body.  From the Marsanne there is the hint of spice.  This is a well balanced wine with the full body of a Chardonnay, the minerality and flavors of a Sauvignon Blanc and the spicy aroma of a Marisanne. I find it crisp and pleasant.  It can be purchased for under $15.00.   


Ruffino Orvieto Classico 2008: I never seem to tire of this one. The 2008 vintage is especially good. It is made from 40% Grechetto, 20% Procanico (sub-variety of Trebbiano), with the remaining 40% comprised of Verdello and Canaiolo Bianco. It is superbly balanced,crisp and refreshing with a playful give and take between structure, acidity and taste. Apples, lemons, and great fruitiness make this a superb summer drinking wine. The extra long and refreshing finish is especially pleasing. There's no harshness here. Just a smooth, succulent, refreshing and flavorful wine. You can find this wine in most wine stores for under $10.00.

La Linda Torrontes 2009: Just the other day I tried an Argentinian Torrontes, 2009 from Bodega Luigi Bosca.  This was my first Torrontes.  It is very aromatic with citrus notes, lemon and possibly orange, as well.  It's lightly textured, pale in appearance and quite smooth on the palate.  It's a surprisingly 14.5% alcohol so it is quite big for a white. I picked up apple and soft lemon on the palate.  It was nicely crisp with good acidity and minerality.  I did note a bitterness on the finish.  I will try this again and see if it makes it into the Pantheon of summer whites. This wine goes for a tad over $10.00. 

I hope you enjoy these wines during the hot summer months.  They are refreshing, crisp and highly enjoyable.  Let me know your experiences with them.  You can also send me your list of favorite summer whites.