Portuguese Red Wines - Cardeal and Monte Da RavasQuiera

Portuguese table wines are gaining in popularity. In my younger days I drank my share of Mateus. I really liked the bottles. Mateus is a sweetish, carbonated wine that is still sold ubiquitously around the world. But Portugal has come a long way and has moved beyond not only Mateus but the also the traditional Port and Madeira wines for which it has been known for many years. Good Portuguese wines are grown in both the north and south. The northern regions consist of Douro, Dao and Barraida. In the south there are Estremedura and Ribatejo, which includes Peter Brights very interesting efforts. Of course, there is Madeira known for its port wine.

Today I want to talk about two Portuguese wines from the north. The first is Cardeal Reserva 2007. This wine is produced from the Touriga-Nacional grape. Although this grape is used largely for port wines of the Douro, it is also being used for good quality table wines. The Cardeal was very pleasant to drink. The color was not a fully deep red but quite attractive. The legs were copius with a 13.5% alcohol content. The nose was lively and full of berries and I think plum. I immediately had the feel of an earthy, rustic element. I had the sense of really smashing those grapes with my feet. It was down home. The wine lingered on the tongue but not overly long. There was the hint of oak although I'm not sure how it is produced. The wine overall seemed to lack a certain integration. It also seemed a tad too simple. It is a very enjoyable red but not all one would want in a great wine.

The second wine is Monte Da RavasQuiera 2007 from Alentejo-Catavino. From the estate of the same name this wine is a very nice blend: 40% Trincadeira, 20% Touriga-Nacional, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Tempranillo, 10% Touriga Franca and 5% Alicante Bouchet. The color was deep and red with a nose of cherry, blackberry and spice. It had great balance, fullness and some complexity. The tannins were smooth. The finish was long and enjoyable. Although not as complex as it might be the smoothness and the balance were very enjoyable. There was a regal, upper class feel. I felt like a member of the royal palace. Not bad at all. I found that with some time the wine grew more enjoyable. In fact, the second day was superior to the first. It takes quite a bit of time for this wine to find itself and open up to higher potential.

Both of these wines are very enjoyable, if not the most complex. They are worth the time and effort to purchase and are reasonably priced.

Wine Friends Reunited - Pomerol, Vouvray and Saint Peray

Together Again

Recently, Mary and I were invited to the home of Phil and Mary Gallagher. Phil is a professor at Brooklyn College while Mary splits her teaching and research between Queens College and Columbia University. The occasion was a reunion of sorts with our dear friends Adele and Eric Steinberg, who now reside in Florida. Both Adele and Eric worked formerly at Brooklyn College, Eric as the Associate Provost and Adele as a financial aid adviser. Our gracious hosts, Phil and Mary shared their home with us for a most enjoyable gathering. All of us are lovers of wine. However, it is Eric who is our guru and spiritual wine master. Eric has been a collector of fine wines since the 1970s. He is superb judge of wine with a generosity of spirit that would make the most dense of palates feel comfortable and willing to learn, as I can attest.

Appetizers, Saint Peray and Vouvray

The day started with appetizers from assorted olives to superb cheeses. Mary and I brought a bottle of Saint Peray, Tardieu - Laurent 2007 from Young's Fine Wines. This was a very pleasing wine with a hint of honey and oak and a delicate minerality, in addition to great balance and sophistication. According to Tom Cannavan's Wine Pages "The fruit is all from very old vines of at least 40 years or so, with much of it 80 years old more more. There is natural concentration without over-extraction, which results in powerful yet balanced wines with real poise." As we finished off the Saint Peray, Phil brought out a 1997 Domaine Sylvain Gaudron Vouvray (Loire Valley). This was a superb wine. Chenin Blanc is a favorite of mine and I was very pleased when Phil started pouring. It had wonderful body, a mild sweetness, overall great texture and was thoroughly refreshing. The color was an astounding, deep yellow which stood out next to the pale Saint Peray. In fact, the color reminded me and Eric of a well aged German wine.

Risotto

The first course consisted of a lobster risotto. I may say this was the best risotto I have ever enjoyed. Bravo, Mary. Never have my wife and I had a risotto of such refinement and subtle complexity. It was as they say "like butter." We've been talking about it ever since. Phil was nice enough to send me the recipe. Superb!

The Main Course with Chateau Latour a Pomerol

The main course was braised quail on a bed of palenta, stuffed with cotechino sausage and accompanied with fresh asparagus. Not having had quail before we didn't quite know what to expect. Needless to say, it was superb. The palenta was a perfect compliment. The asparagus was perfectly done with a mild flavor that did not over power the quail or palenta. All of this was served with a 1982 Château Latour à Pomerol; a perfect match. Phil insisted the Pomerol was not as good as it was a year ago. However, to my taste it was an exquisite wine. Wine Advocate put it best: "WA 93 (6/2000): A mature dark plum color with considerable amber at the edge is followed by copious aromas of caramel, coffee, jammy cherry fruit, and sweet herbs. Fleshy, succulent, and low in acidity, this seductive, sweet, fat Pomerol has reached its peak of maturity, where it should remain for another 5-8 years. It is an impressively complex, delicious wine, although not a blockbuster." What more can I say.

The pleasure of seeing our good friends, the Steinbergs from Florida, and our generous hosts Phil and Mary Gallagher was extraordinary and uplifting. Phil and Mary created a wonderful and exciting meal, the quality of which is rarely experienced. Adele and Eric added a warmth and humility Mary and I find so enjoyable. Good friends all. We left the dinner basking in enduring friendship. We are looking forward to meeting again.

Kudos to all!!!

Wines from Veneto, Italy

Mary and I attended an excellent wine tasting at Young's Fine Wines and Spirits in Manhasset, Long Island this past Sunday. The tasting was moderated by Kim Caldwell who covered the wines of Veneto, Italy. I will summarize some of what we learned. The leading wines of Veneto are Amarone (red), Proseco (white sparkling), Soave (white), Valpolicella (red), Bardolino(red), etc. Veneto is the most prolific wine region of Italy. Unfortunately, this does not translate into fine wines. For some time now the philosophy in Veneto has been largely commercial with industrial amounts of Bardolino, Soave and Valpolicella being produced. These wines are inexpensive, easy to drink and of little distinction. There are some exceptions.


Amarone

Amarone is made from the same grapes as Valpolicella along with rondinella, molinara, and prehaps negrara. The difference is that while making Valpolicella the grapes are picked during the regular harvest but for Amarone, the grapes are left hanging to achieve extra ripeness and higher amounts of sugar. The more sugar in the grape the higher the alcohol content during fermentation. The grapes are then placed on bambo mats and placed in cool drying lofts for up to four months. This causes the grapes to shrivel which further concentrates the sugars. The wines that result from this are very full-bodied, almost opulent with an alcohol contest of up to 16%. The wine is then aged for 5 years or more in contrast to the regular Valpolicella which is rarely aged.

The top producers of Amarone are Allegrini, Bertani, Tedeschi, Masa, Quintarelli, Tommasi, and Zento.

According to wineintro.com "Amarone is the fourth biggest seller in Italy, behind Chianti, Asti, and Soave. This fine wine has flavors of licorice, tobacco and fig, and goes well with game and ripe cheese. Hannibal of Silence of the Lambs fame, of course, had his with fava beans. In the movie version, they had him drinking the more pedestrian chianti wine type. While some styles of amarone can be very bitter (that's where the name comes from), new styles are more fruity.

Amarone can be drunk young, while still a ruby purple, but they also age magnificently to a dark garnet for thirty years or more. A typical drinking age is 10 years. Amarone should be served around 60 F."

Proseco

Proseco is made primarily from the proseco grape. Sometimes very small amounts of pinot grigio and pinot bianco are added. The very best proseco is grown in towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene which are both north of Venice. Proseco is a spumante and more fruity and less crisp than Champagne. The difference between proseco and Champagne is that the proseco is fermented twice in pressurized tanks.

We used Proseco at our son's wedding recently rather than Champagne. It was a great hit.

Regarding Amarone and Proseco my brother James who travels to Italy frequently says "Amarone is my favorite wine and it can be pricey. In italy you can get a great bottle relatively less costly. Last week I had a proseco as a dessert wine. I don't remember the name."

Soave and Valpolicella

Much of Valpolicella sold in the US is of commercial grade and not of great worth. However, there are five grades of Valpoolicella. There is Classico, Classico Superiore, which is aged for a year, and an even higher grade called Valpolecella ripasso which is added to amarone pomace (the pulpy mass left over from the fermination of the amarone). The highest grade of Valpolicella is recioto della Valpolicella. In this version the grapes are dried and allowed to raisinate.

Like Valpolicella the Soave sold in the US is cheap, white jug wine. But there is a Soave Classico which is grown and harvested in the original Soave area. Above this is the Soave Classico Superiore which has to be aged for eight months before it is sold.

Kim does a great job at these tastings. Here is a video introducing Young's and introducing you to Kim Caldwell.

Wine and Food Pairing

One of the greatest joys of drinking wine is pairing it with specific foods. The combination of food and wine enhances the taste of both. I find nothing more satisfying than researching which wine may go perfectly with a meal. I'm especially heartened by the success of getting it just right for Thanksgiving Dinner or a Memorial Day barbecue. Cheese is especially good for combining. It's no mistake that wine and cheese have become mainstays in our repasts.

The problem for most of us confronted with the task of combining food and wine is to decide exactly which wine may go with that special meal we are planning. Pairing food and wine seems to bring a high level of anxiety to those burdened with getting it right. The question I am asked most is "What do I serve with...?" A common response from experts is that there are no rules. Go with what you like. Well, this postmodern response has some truth to it. But it expresses the sentiment that all is chaos and that there are no rules to follow. This is far from the truth. There are clearly helpful guidelines that can be followed that make it easier to enjoy both wine and food.

I have found a helpful video that very quickly and precisely identifies the basics of wine and food pairing. The video comes from Everything Wine which is the largest wine store in British Columbia. I quote from their YouTube page explaining that Everything Wine "is BC's largest wine store with locations in North Vancouver and Langford. Everything Wine is an upscale, service-oriented wine warehouse that focuses on wine discovery in a stylish environment. With over 3,000 domestic and international wines, a Vintages premium room, wine lessons and a tasting bar open everyday from 2pm-6pm, this one-stop shop upholds its name Everything Wine."



I hope this video was helpful. Here are a few good web sites that address the issue of wine and food. Good luck and have fun.

WineIntro
Food and Wine Pairing Guide
GourmetSleuth

If you have any questions about your wine and food pairing don't hesitate to ask. Keep in mind that this is not a competition. The object is to enjoy the pleasure of drinking wine and eating food.

Salute!

Henri Bourgeois Sancerre - La Porte de Caillou 2007

I opened this wine for dinner yesterday. I found it refreshing with a honey overlay that was very interesting. It masked the citrus punch that seemed to be sitting just under the surface. The citrus elements wanted to burst through but were delayed by the heavier texture of the honey. There was a light lemonish flavor readily apparent with a foundation of other less distinguishable fruits. I caught something of peach and melon lurking in the background. The texture was light and crisp. It gave the clear impression of a firm body. It is a wine that is confident in itself. In addition the bouquet was highly aromatic and pleasing.

After dinner I replaced the cork and refrigerated the wine that was left. Opening it up today for lunch, Mary and I both found it overpowered by grapefruit and acid. It was crisp and pungent. It was reminiscent of the more upfront citrus varieties of New Zealand. However, we both missed the more subtle and muted tones of the night before. This is a fine wine worth the price of $20.00 plus.

Independance Day - 2009: American Wines Galore

The Issue

It's the Fourth of July, Independence Day, 2009. The 233rd anniversary of the founding of the Republic. Realizing we were going to be entertaining some of our oldest and dearest friends for the 4th, I ruminated about what wine selection would fit the occasion. The answer was simple, American wines! Since we were going to be doing some traditional grilling, I tried to pair wines that would go well with this style of cooking. I came up with a few wines that seemed to be perfect to augment our 4th of July Celebration. I went with two whites and two reds. The menu for the day contained both red meat(flank steak and hamburgers)and white meat (chicken, and turkey burgers) with asparagus, corn on the cob and potato salad. For appetizers we chose two cheeses, an Italian sweet Garganzola and a Spanish Monchego. Black olives and chips for dip rounded out the preliminaries. I would have to work with both red and white wines to give my guests some good pairing opportunities.

The Guest List

Our guest list was pretty full with some very discerning palates. The Brown's were coming from Brooklyn. The Ciaccio's from Douglaston, our son Dave, his fiance, Angela, coming from Astoria, our son Chris stopping in for a few mintues after working at Equinox Fitness Center, and our nephew Mike from Bay Ridge, Brooklyn. Alden Brown and Ed Ciaccio are rather experienced wine tasters, as well as aficionados of other adult beverages. If you know what I mean.

The Wines

I chose a La Crema 2007 Chardonnay for the appetizers. It was not my first choice. I had hoped to use a Cuvaison but the local wine shop did not have it in stock. La Crema is a fine Chardonnay from the Russian Valley with tropical fruits, good body, a toasty oak finish, full nose, and a soft texture. When I first tasted it I was taken by the oak and toasty flavor. To be honest, it was a tad too heavy for what I had hoped for. The oak was too strong for the appetizers or just didn't seem to fit perfectly with the sweet garganzola. Unfortunately, everyone else had opted to indulge in gin and tonics so I have no basis of comparison. I should have taken the hint when I alone went with the Chardonnay. Perhaps a nice Sauvignon Blanc would have been better. An Oyster Bay SB might have worked.

For the main meal I opened a 2005 Estancia Meritage which is a bourdieu blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Alden looked up from his plate of flank steak and potato salad and said "This is excellent." His eyes told a story of real enjoyment. Mary concurred. She commented that it was superb with a great bouquet and smooth texture. A success!

The final wine which I had paired with the chicken and other dishes, such as the very light and heavenly potato salad and the asparagus in olive oil and lemon was a 2007 Eroica Riesling from the Columbia Valley estate of Chateau Ste. Michelle. I had never indulged in this wine. But the reviews were very positive. I had hoped the Riesling would be dry enough to be appropriate for the main meal. Maureen Brown thought simply: "It's too sweet for me." Mary thought it wasn't overly sweet but quite fine. I suspected this was a spouse coming to the rescue of a sinking husband. As for myself I thought it was quite good and paired well with the food although there was a sweetness to the wine. I would have preferred greater dryness.

All in all the wines were good as was the great camaraderie and good feelings. I would say the Estancia Meritage was the best fit. It superbly complemented the flank steak and burgers with just the right amount of body and an immense complexity, with hints of choclolate and spice. The Ciaccio's generously drove the Brown's to the LIRR for their trip back to Brooklyn. It was a charming and wonderful day with friends.

The Spanish Quarter - Chardonnay, Albarino and the Human Tower

Mary and I had the opportunity to visit friends out in West Islip Long Island this past Sunday. The day was one of only a few sunny warm days in the past month. June in New York has been wet and soggy almost every day. To celebrate the occasion, we brought a bottle of The Spanish Quarter, 2006, an exciting blend of Chardonnay (60%) and Albarino (40%) grapes. Upon arriving at the Tully's very comfortable and inviting home, Rich Tully asked my preference for serving the wine. Since we had also brought Mary's home-made clam dip I decided that The Spanish Quarter would go perfectly with the seafood. Rich served it enthusiastically out on the deck with the dip for all the guests to enjoy. At first sip Marina Trentacoste uttered "This is very good." I knew immediately we had a winner.

The wine was an interesting straw color, very vibrant and inviting. The nose had hints of citrus, with upfront fruit in the modern manner, and an overlay of peach, and possibly apricot and apple; very aromatic. It was crisp and refreshing. The finish was long and enjoyable, no bitterness but with a sharpness that lingered. The blend of Chardonnay muted some of the Albarino's traditional cutting quality. The bottle was finished in a flash. It was superb with the clams. I'm sure it would go with all seafood dishes. We had not experienced a blend of Chardonnay and Albarino. The Albarino grape is one of the most popular white wines in Spain. According to Gail Wallis of Suite 101:

"The albarino grape originates in Galicia, misty land of the ancient Celts. Located in the lushly green and hilly northwest corner of Spain, Galicia is a land heavily reliant on the fishing industry. The climate here is greatly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, with wet and chilly winters, dry summers, and high humidity—perfect conditions for growing certain white grape varieties, such as Albarino. The grape also grows a bit farther south, in Portugal, where it is known as "alvarinho."

One of the added pluses to the enjoyment of the wine was the label. Mary explained to our friends that it is a hand painted rendition of an ancient Spanish tradition, the building of human pyramids. This takes place each year at the The Fiesta de La Virgen de La Salud (The Feast of the Virgin of Health) at the beginning of September in the town of Algemesi. Acrobats from all over Spain descend on the town and create human towers. The tradition started in late 18th century Catalonia and spread south. My wife tells me a part of this tradition was to have a small child be the very top of the pyramid. I could certainly see a nice bottle of The Spanish Quarter being enjoyed at such a spectacle. You can read about the pyramids in Graham Smith's article. I took the photo I posted here from that piece. It's truly amazing.

The Spanish Quarter also comes in a red variety which is a blend of Cabernet and Tempranillo.

Our visit to the Tully's reached it's crecendo with Idamarie's luscious pork dinner served with carrots, squash and other delicious morsels. Dinner was topped off with some amazing desserts compliments of our friends Sal and Marina Trentacoste and Kathy and Bill Carriero. It was an enjoyable day, with good friends and fine wine and food.