For our traditional Labor Day party at our place in Floral Park, Long Island, I chose an interesting offering from Puglia, Italy.
Anarkos wine has a unique cultural context that is just as interesting as the wine. As far as I can tell, Anarkos wine is produced by an anarchist commune of sorts that is decrying the misuse of the traditional grapes from the "lands of Puglia." To quote from the Anarkos web site, which is rather explicit:
"The Sacrifice of Millions of Rare Alberello Grape Wines, the third millenium Capitalistic Colonization of the lands of Puglia, the Expoitation of its vineyards and wines, the northern regions Bellicose Take Over of Puglian planting rights, the Complicity and the Factiousness of the European Community Laws of agriculture, cultural Oppression which influences the consumption of wine, the Annihilation of tradition, the Dominance of the market. Accademia says: no!"
The alberello is a small hardy vine with minimal need for water. This vine is very effective for use in southern Italian regions that have very little rain fall. Alberello is also a traditional way of making wine or vinoculture that enables an increased density per hectare. In the past twenty years many have abandoned the traditional ways of producing wine in Puglia and have used Palmetta or Cordon vines. However, these vines suffer greatly from the long hot southern Italian summers.
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| Beautiful Puglia |
The Anarkos website alludes to the exploitation, by capitalist concerns, of the old ways. Capitalists and their embrace of the market have been destroying the traditional alberello system of wine making. The Anarkos group is attempting to restore the tradition before it is totally annihilated.
Since our friend Ed was coming over for dinner, and has leftest sympathies, Anarkos seemed to be a perfect match for the festivities.
I decanted the wine, which was a 2011 Anarkos, an hour before drinking. I had tried to find a 2010 vintage but could only come up with a 2011. This may be too recent a vintage to get a realistic tasting. The wine is a blend of the traditional grapes Primativo, Negro Amaro, and Malvasia. At first taste, I was struck by the texture, smooth and silky, almost gooey. I felt it was coating my tongue. It wasn't very dry and not much acidity. The flavors were deep plums and fruits, probably cherries. It had a succulent, rich feel. My daughter-in-law, Angela, thought it was sweet. I believe her sensation stemmed from the very forward fruit. The alcohol content is 13%. Over time, sitting out in the back devouring barbecued meats and veggies, I found the fruit moving more forward and dominating. I would say that Anarkos is a mix of old traditional wine making and new, more current methods.
The label is attractive and provocative. The wine is very enjoyable but not totally to my liking. Too much fruit, too fruit driven. However, my guests fully enjoyed it and gave it a high rating. Anarkos is worth purchasing. You can pick it up for about $14.00 or less on sale.
